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Post by hovis on Jul 10, 2007 11:01:20 GMT -5
Jake, don't know anything about heated clothing but heard good reports,you are right about the heated grips to a point although heated palms on a cold day are better than nothing !!!!!!!!,i was speaking to a courier who reckoned the big handle bar muffs were the way to go and pretty effective if you can live with them.The heated gloves are susposed to be excellent. If your a all year commuter guess they may come in handy. I once rode back from Berlin to Calais in October and it was sleeting all the way,could have done with the heated clothing that time,it was the very worst trip ever,i was that cold i seriously considered leaving the bike at a service station in Belgium !!!!!!!!!!!!!,resorted to the old favourite of newspapers down my jacket and trousers,it did work for a while,but i was never so glad to see that P&O ferry !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hovis
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Post by mexicanbandit on Jul 10, 2007 12:24:46 GMT -5
Hi there jake. I have some Gerbing heated gloves and they work a treat much better than heated grips and they have a lifetime warrenty on the electrics. When i've got some more cash i'm gunna get meself one of their jackets and maybe some socks!!
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Post by Jake on Jul 11, 2007 8:06:42 GMT -5
Thanks Guys... I think I'll try the Gerbing gloves to begin with then buy the jacket liner later. I notice that the gloves can be connected to spare sockets in the sleeves of the jacket liner which seems quite neat.... If I connect the gloves to the jacket liner then I won't have to route the wiring from the battery around the handle bars.... Does that make sense Mex? www.motobrio.com/ShowProductDetails.cfm?Cat=106&Product=360With your gloves, do you put the wiring around the handlebars, or route it through your bike jacket? Also, will the NTV's battery handle both the gloves and the Gerbing jacket liner? Jake.
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Post by mexicanbandit on Jul 11, 2007 12:47:32 GMT -5
The wires are designed to be routed though your jacket arms and down your front it can be a bit annoying but what I did was to stitch it onto the liner so it doesnt move anywhere!
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Post by mexicanbandit on Jul 11, 2007 12:49:26 GMT -5
P.S it should be able to take the whole lot including the trousers as they only use a small amount of juice outta your battery
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Post by Jake on Jul 12, 2007 3:36:06 GMT -5
Cheers Mex... thanks for the info.
Jake.
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Post by honda on Jul 31, 2007 17:58:56 GMT -5
NTV700??? I have a feeling/notion/educated guess's about this. In some ways this would be nice, to have new/fresh replacements for our NTV's and to have a slicker gearbox which the 700 certainly has. The gearbox could of course be partly the result of the newer 10w30 oil honda is useing and incidently HONDA are recomending retro fitment, so I am currently trying it. No comment just yet but I will confirm that it is not a disadvantage. Then there's the swingarm or rather the amount of them. I like the the single sided one, the wheel is easy to remove and the rear brake is not too bad to work at either. The 700 rear wheel is not near as easy to remove with spindle's/calipers etc to remove and the r/brake isnt as handy either. The 700 front brake's would help especialy when two up but are a little too good for winter riding without ABS. The 700 got two more valve's which seemed to do away with two spark plug's and a bit of the economy also. (many engine's that could be converted to twin plug showed improvements in economy afterward such as the airhead boxer BM's) The fuel injection has some advantage's but I'll stick with carb's Honda
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Post by Jake on Aug 1, 2007 3:54:23 GMT -5
Interesting….
Couldn’t agree more…. Naked NT 700 with improved gearbox, two more valves and just two spark plugs. Honda’s suggestion of using own brand 10w30 oil has been anticipated by owners’ of current NTV who use fully synthetic 5w40 oil made by Silkolene (Pro4 plus). Big improvement on gearbox but expensive at around £40 for four litres.
But why stick with carbs rather than fuel injection? Presumably fuel injection was introduced because of stricter emission controls and I can’t see Honda returning to carbs on a naked and lighter version of an NT 700 or a return to single-sided swing arm.
But then I can’t really see them introducing a naked NT, unless there’s a big market demand….
Jake.
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Post by honda on Aug 1, 2007 17:28:56 GMT -5
New gearbox Yeah!!!!!! but I would stay with the 650 or even the 750 barrels & heads etc from an xrv (also one very good machine but a bit high and no shaft) as I would like to keep the twin plugs for economy. This low reving thing hasnt much need for 4 valves e.g. brit bikes in the 60s had as around the same power with 2v per cyl and pushrods. I have used the Pro4 plus but the recomended now is 10w30 power 1 and I think all who try will notice good results. I dont want to praise it too highly as I havent it in very long but the results in newer machines are good and Mr Honda wouldnt recomend it without serious testing on road going machines. I like carbs, its simple! they work and keep on working. Injection if and when there are problems is expensive to repair and the slightest bit of corrosion in the wireing will have it fail as the signals are in milliamps and so easy to disturb. I aggree with you that there is no chance of a naked 700 but I was just voiceing what I would like. And along those lines what about a thread for differant members ideas on improvements for an NTV/Revere Honda
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Post by Jake on Aug 2, 2007 3:19:06 GMT -5
I like the cheaper price of Castrol Power 1 GPS 10w30 Oil. But sorry mate, despite Mr Honda’s recommendation, I’ve not been a big fan of Castrol oil in the past, it’s that ‘sticky’ red consistency that’s put me off and I’ve often wondered if it’s a true synthetic based on ester technology, or just a fortified mineral oil.
But maybe Power 1 is an improvement over previous offerings in the Castrol range. I may try it, but I sense just a little hesitation here, as though your not fully convinced as yet. But then oil threads are always good for a little bit of (friendly) banter…. Everyone has a preference when it comes to their favourite engine oil….
I do agree however, that rather than praise the NTV most of the time, we could start a thread that’s a bit more critical and in terms of a ‘wish list’ suggest improvements…..
Jake.
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Post by honda on Aug 2, 2007 4:10:34 GMT -5
Not GPS. Power1 racing is what is now recomended and like you I am not a fan of castrol as everything else I put it in years back had large creamy coloured deposits in the rocker/cam box's. Its a bit like my memories of bridgestone's. When one bought a new 380 or RD etc the first thing was to skip those plastic tyre's from japan and put on some rubber ones. I have never really forgiven bridgestone for that. I would however agree with anyone that Castrol did the job it was meant to unlike the tyre's, I just Had no love for it. I used Shell for years. However Honda and Castrol go hand in hand and I have access to Castrol and Silkolene. Shell simply doesnt sell in this area. CP1R is not sticky stuff by no means and it is definatly not cheap. I tried the super4 and then the pro4plus which was most definatly an improvement. The first people to get CP1R in were mature fast riders with many years of riding and because of their comments I felt compelled to at least try it in an older model with loads of miles on it. I would like a box which would run on "ordinary" oil and not this expensive stuff but there is such an improvement with fully syn I put up with the price even if the rest of the motor would do fine on a basic oil. No hesitation, I just wont give it my all untill I have maybe 6k on it and the way the weather is looking that will be another few weeks. I will however say that there is no trouble with the dreaded clutch slip so far even with wife'y on back and giving the engine a good rev and trying to make it slip. There is an improvement in the gearbox, it is possible to ride around town without thinking something will jump out through the caseing's at every gear change including 1st to 2nd. In other words it is least possible to change gears without the clunk. I would say the NTV has maybe less faults than many others but there are certain things which could be modernised a bit for an advantage and not just appearance. Honda
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Post by Jake on Aug 2, 2007 6:43:01 GMT -5
OK mate, that seems fair enough. Let me know how you get on using the Power 1 racing oil after 6k and if you recommend it, then I'll give it a try.... I was actually thinking of trying Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 car oil, in the NTV, because unlike their Brit counterparts, biker's in the States are not afraid to use a diesal-rated synth. Apparently, biker’s over there can buy Shell Rotella-T Synthetic car oil, at around $13 a gallon at Wal-Mart, so I can see why it's so popular!!! motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.htmlJake.
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Post by honda on Aug 2, 2007 9:51:48 GMT -5
I'll keep all posted. Thanks for the link to shell in the state's. Everything over there from oil is cheaper be it basic lubricants or the price per ton of propane/butane. The differance is always against northern europe on the world markets. All the countries even within europe serviced from the Med sea receive their processed supplies for much less than we do and that is before blighty hits us all with their tax's. Go anywhere in rural Spain toward the med side and buy yourself a bottle/tank of gas for the house and you'll know what I mean. There is something else playing around in the retail market also a bit like price fixing. If one owns say a Shell filling station all the lub comes in from shell at forcourt rate which is higher than commercial rate. Up untill about ten years back I had friends with a shell station and we had a little qiute aggreement. I bought shell lubs for my business which included all the retail small packed stuff such as 1/2 ltr gear oil and engine oils etc. I was able to sell my friend oil whilst making profit and they were more than happy to get their lubs for about 30% less than forcourt rate. I think the same thing applies to the motorcycle industry. If I want a set of Ferodo pads for any of our cars etc I would expect to pay £22 £24 for four pads that are about 3 times the size and about 4 times the thickness of friction material what would be on bike pads which would be in the same price range almost. I suspect the oil's are the same. The motorcycle industry has came into the same class as boating/caravans/campers etc and therefore is leisure so every effort is made to rip the customer off. There is little differance between bike and car/comm oil and there is certainly nothing wrong with diesel oil but the problem is there is not a contents run down on the jar. Bikes dont need nor want such things as slippy as teflon because of their clutches. If you can figure such things out or get your hands on what I used to call the oil bible from one of the oil people all the info is there including what products are the same but branded with differant names and of course one of them is 3 maybe 4 times the price of the other. There was Myrina15w40shpd which was a long change truck/comm oil. It was the same as The then Helix15w40 sold in smaller box's. Unfortunately all the names and spec's have changed so my book has gotten out of date. Its rip off UK and thats that. People in other places would not put up with it but we do Honda
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Post by Jake on Aug 3, 2007 3:45:13 GMT -5
Cheers, honda…. As a point of interest, see quote below taken from an article called ‘All About Oil’ which may be slightly out of date by now, but still interesting: “ In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the thingyroach bits removed. “ “ Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil…… To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics. “ I’d also add Silkolene synthetic motorcycle oil to the above list, as a genuine synthetic, since it also uses Ester technology…. motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.htmlJake.
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Post by Kris on May 10, 2008 11:53:48 GMT -5
Does anybody know what bar end weights I need for a Bros NT650? Got it restored, only the engine to be done (turns but won't start) and the weights. Anyone? Please, pretty please
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