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Post by norfolknchance on Jul 13, 2008 17:41:09 GMT -5
can anybody help
new master cylinder kit (genuine honda),
new caliper seals (genuine honda)
new copper washers top & lower
pressure builds (up but not enough to stop it at 30)
till the pipe is flexing & the caliper is moving against the disk
ive now changed the pipe & changed the the master cylinder to one off a kwak 500 & same affect
any ideas what is causing this
as far as i can tell there is no leaks any where in the system
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Post by dpmiller on Jul 14, 2008 4:05:49 GMT -5
Lever hard or soft?
Are the pads new and unbedded or do they fit the disc correctly? Are they free to slide in the carrier?
Caliper slides free too?
If anything in the caliper or it's mount is sticking, you can have a situation where the pad on the piston side presses against the disc, but instead of gripping the disc against the other pad it just bends the disc slightly...
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Post by norfolknchance on Jul 14, 2008 14:10:56 GMT -5
pads are new, caliper has had a complete overhaul, new piston seals, rubbers & full clean
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pops
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by pops on Jul 14, 2008 14:22:28 GMT -5
Is the brake fluid new or reused?
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Post by norfolknchance on Jul 14, 2008 15:11:28 GMT -5
fresh
new sealed bottle
since found that the master cylinder is leaking BUT only when the presure starts to build up
managed to get the presure up on a GPZ500 master cylinder
BUT it doesnt have a mirror mount
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Post by hubcap on Jul 21, 2008 5:11:12 GMT -5
In seemingly but not actually random addition to this, those little mountain bike mirros that you can buy from halfords are rather small and quite useless for a bike. If you can even make out your elbow in it you're lucky..
Can't imagine what view you'd get on a standard set of bars, being as Al's are a bit wider and taller.
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Post by ilegalalien on Jul 21, 2008 15:03:48 GMT -5
If i have a dodgy brake sysem i pull the lever to the handlebars and put a bungie around it, this holds the lever on the bars, i leave it overnight and give the system a small quick bleed, this has worked many times on spongy brakes.. what this does is push all the air into the caliper so a quick bleed removes the air.. also the bike needs to be on level ground and on the mainstand, bleeding the brakes on the sidestand will leave air trapped at the top of the caliper, if this fails then it could be a number of things covered up there ^^
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Post by norfolknchance on Jul 21, 2008 15:17:21 GMT -5
front brake working again
took 6 hours to bleed the system & am back on the old pads
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Post by jaz66 on Jul 21, 2008 19:08:57 GMT -5
hi Did read when i had brake problem that along with the usual way of bleeding brakes, some one suggested using a syringe and injecting fluid into brake nipple and forcing fluid up and into reservoir. Have not used it myself but probably is workable...imo could be good deal quicker than 6 hours.....  best regards jaz |
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Post by mjseymo on Jul 28, 2008 5:53:07 GMT -5
As another related question to this, I have been told that the Deauville calliper on the front is much better than the earlier NTV650 and is a useful upgrade. Is this right, any comments?
Cheers
Martin
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Post by honda on Jul 28, 2008 14:07:27 GMT -5
Be carefull about switching to a caliper from a twin disc model as piston sizes change in both master cyl to match twin cal's. There nothing wrong with the front caliper on the NTV its just the fact there is only one thats the problem. As before in one of my long stories use genuine Honda pads. They are well worth the money. There are countless Honda calipers use the same shape pad and the after market supply much the same material to suit all. The NTV takes a fat pad with a suitable compound which suits the NTV. Beware though even some Honda agents shortlist their stock and can sell you harder pads from the twin disc sports models. When fitted to a single disc they arnt much better than the after market parts. When their looking up the EPC make sure you get the right one's. I use genuine ones and found them quite a good job
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Post by ilegalalien on Jul 29, 2008 9:44:53 GMT -5
my front brake is awsome, i moved the master cylinder towards the middle of the bars (or clipons in my case) and use a dog leg lever... more leverage=stopping quicker... had to bend the mirror stem as well (could only see my elbow)
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rusty
Full Member
Posts: 52
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Post by rusty on Jul 29, 2008 11:44:33 GMT -5
have you checked the slider pins and holes are free from corrosion at the bottom of the holes as this can cause problems, as can the spring clip on top of the pads, I had a problem with the brake sticking on, and it was the spring clip that had distorted and caught behind a pad and would push it onto t the disc......... ( Hmmmm reminds me I must get a new clip and fit before MOT)
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Post by pilgrim on Jul 30, 2015 16:53:30 GMT -5
hi Did read when i had brake problem that along with the usual way of bleeding brakes, some one suggested using a syringe and injecting fluid into brake nipple and forcing fluid up and into reservoir. Have not used it myself but probably is workable...imo could be good deal quicker than 6 hours..... best regards jaz Use syringe to SUCK fluid to caliper, more natural flow. Just changed lines on my '90 Revere and bled in 15mins.
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