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Post by steadythebuffs on Sept 20, 2007 13:54:25 GMT -5
Hi chaps, Always looking for the easy option - is it possible to extract fork oil effectively using a 'top drainer' - one of those vacuum pumps that let's you drain car engine oil out of the dipstick tube? Anyone tried this. I bought one a couple of years back, and used it plenty of times to change the oil on old cars without having to mess about with the sump plug. You had to get the engine at a proper operating temp, of course, (get all the rubbish in suspension) but it made the job a doddle, cutting out all of the mess. Buffs
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Post by honda on Sept 20, 2007 16:00:26 GMT -5
It is kinda posible but I dont think worth it. Take them out turn them upside down as per an earlier posting. Refill to one of the advised levels. (where these levels come from I dont know as I have looked up the fork components and most of the parts are common) Prime them by pumping them up and down then check the levels. honda
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Post by dpmiller on Sept 20, 2007 16:15:57 GMT -5
You can extract and set the levels from the top. No problem, but be aware that you won't be emptying the fork fully; more like 2/3rds of a fill.
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Post by steadythebuffs on Sept 21, 2007 17:15:30 GMT -5
thanks, I think I'll try it - could cut out a lot of the hassle. Refresh the 2/3 of the oil with some 10w! Buffs
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Post by tweaker on Sept 24, 2007 6:24:48 GMT -5
Hi All - back from deepest Manchester now and confirm that a 50/50 mix of 10W and 20W suits me fine . auNTy Vee did great! Good riding, and I escaped without getting soaked as well!! - Tweaker
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Post by ntvnick on Sept 28, 2007 17:25:41 GMT -5
I put 10W oil in my forks and they seem fine. I think it is false economy not to remove the forks when changing the oil. When I drained the oil, there was some metallic sludge at the bottom. Also unless you have the fork out and held vertical I can't see how you can fill to the recommended level.
cheers
Nick
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Post by steadythebuffs on Sept 30, 2007 11:12:31 GMT -5
fair point that, Nick It's a question of making the best of it, knowing how little time I have for this, and inclination. If I don't find some sort of shortcut it won't get done. My feeling is that the main thing with the oil is that it is renewed, the main thing with the levels is that they are the same. It wouldn't take much (just knowing the internal diameter of the fork) to apply a bit of maths and get the exact depth measurements for when the fork is at a given angle (and that's the sort of work I like - indoors with a cup of tea!), but even without that I could just 'refresh' the oil to the current level and be *slightly* better off.
I'm a 'fork half full' sort of chap aka an idle sod
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Post by McF on Sept 30, 2007 13:26:28 GMT -5
I trust that pun was intended? Good one!
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Post by steadythebuffs on Sept 30, 2007 15:24:15 GMT -5
hehe that one crept in unawares
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Post by tweaker on Oct 1, 2007 6:59:53 GMT -5
It is kinda posible but I dont think worth it. Take them out turn them upside down as per an earlier posting. ... honda Am I missing something here? .. One of the (many) nice things about the NTV versus the Deauville is that the NTV has drain screws at the bottom the the forks so you don't have to get them off and turn them upside down to change the fork oil .. worked fine for me!! - Tweaker
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Post by McF on Oct 1, 2007 8:40:22 GMT -5
I've got two sets of NTV forks (only one brake caliper mounting) one set (the later ones I think) has a handy drain plug, the other (presumably older) set does not. I have the ones without fitted at present. I would have made a similar post, but checked first. There is a shape in the casting to drill and tap for a drain but sadly, this has not been done on this pair.
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Post by Jake on Oct 2, 2007 6:15:49 GMT -5
So…..
As far as front suspension goes has no one tried a fork brace yet?
After fitting Hagon springs with 15w oil, I’ve found that fitting a brace also stiffens the suspension slightly and improves the way the back tracks around long sweeping turns. The forks don’t ‘wrack’ or twist when travelling above legal speeds. I’ve also got the option of slightly softening the suspension by taking the brace off…. which I might be inclined to do over longer distances…...
But I originally fitted a brace because I’d heard that the front disc can warp….. The only thing I’m worried about now, is that the brace might shorten the life of the fork seals.
Jake.
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Post by Jake on Oct 2, 2007 6:29:00 GMT -5
Sorry... that should be ' bike tracks' rather than 'back tracks'....
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Post by McF on Oct 2, 2007 13:05:47 GMT -5
Fork Brace sounds tempting. That piece of tin under the mudguard is not going to stop much movement. I'm generally pretty happy with the handling on mine, and use the fact that's it's not my old CBR to stop myself trying to treat it like one. If I had any complaints it would be some vagueness cornering on bumpy/uneven surfaces and is generally levelled at the front end.
Did you notice much differnece with the Hagon Springs? They sound potentially expensive!
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pops
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by pops on Oct 2, 2007 13:18:35 GMT -5
Hi Guys The only way to correctly fill the forks is to remove them and follow the manual.I dint see what the big deal is about doing this its straight forward .The measurement of oil for different models is in the manual I did both at the weekend no problem. May be I am missing something here.
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