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Post by McF on Oct 7, 2008 1:11:10 GMT -5
Sorry to hear you're still having problems. That's a long bridge to have "hope I don't break down" worries. Good luck at the garage, but a few questions: Was it raining during your ride? Did you lose power gradually (fading away), or suddenly? When you pulled in, did the engine keep running (not under load) or stop on its own? What happened when you stopped - did you keep turning Aunty over or wait a few minutes and then try? When she started was it a burst of life, or a slow build up of power? I saw the suggestions above from Sheekbiker and Rusty. I'm also thinking it sounds like fuel problems. Probably best to let the garage have a look if she is booked in, but did you check: The fuel filters in the tank (on top of the fuel tap) - they can get pretty grotty. In line fuel filter, they do get bunged up too Float bowls and jets in the carbs.
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Post by bob600 on Nov 30, 2008 16:42:28 GMT -5
Good news i got my bike back two weeks ago and all is well she runs very sweet now.No cutting out instead full power like it should do it,s running better now than ever. Big thanks to (Stuart young) he owns the local bike garage here is is web address (www.ype-power.co.uk) this is what he did(striped and cleaned carbs cleaned the tank new fuel lines and pump and he had taken off the fuel filter so the fuel went straight from the tank the pump and he then put it on his dyno what a difference grate bike now. ;D
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Post by richierichl on Nov 21, 2016 16:48:41 GMT -5
Bit of a late reply, but may be useful for future! My NTV cut out in the wet last year, losing all power and stalling if I tried to rev it. After draining carbs and about 5 minutes of ticking over I was able to rev it cleanly once again and got home cautiously. I initially put it down to water in the fuel, as it had rained hard for a few days and I had just filled up. I drained the carbs and tank and re-filled at a different garage. About a week later the problem came back, coming home in the wet from work. As before, left bike ticking over for a bit, then away it went. Replaced HT leads, new spark plugs and liberally sprayed all electrical contacts and ignition lock with WD40. Had changed fuel pump contacts the previous summer, so checked these and re-soldered for peace of mind. Better for a week or so, then problem returned in heavy rain, driving through flooded roads. As the problem seemed to be happening in driving rain, I resorted to sealing the rim of my headlamp with silicone sealant in case rain was getting to the electrics behind the headlight, as the rim as a little misshapen following a low speed drop. No more heavy rain, no more problems, until this winter... On a dry day, I rode through what I thought was a small puddle in the road, only to find it was a six inch deep section of flooding. Water sprayed up from below, drenching the underside of the bike. About a mile down the road, the familiar misfire returned and I had to wait on idle for a while before it cleared. Water had not touched the headlight, or plugs, coils, airbox etc, so had to be something on the underside of the bike. I suspected side stand switch, despite having cleaned this previously and having sprayed it up with WD40. I spent about 1/2 an hour the next day, with a garden hose, spraying the bike from underneath with the engine running on its centrestand. The sidestand switch seemed to be working fine, not affected by water and stopping the engine when in gear. What I eventually discovered was the starter relay, attached to the frame just behind the fuel pump caused the engine to cut out or splutter when wet! Bingo! Removed, cleaned up all contacts and replaced, spraying up the contacts with WD40 and coating all connections with Vaseline once assembled. No more problem, no matter how much I sprayed with the hose. It seems that water had been sprayed up from the back wheel, through a gap between rear mudguard and side panel, straight onto the relay area. Also explained why the problem seemed to be happening accelerating, or at speed, and why I was able to get home fine once going again, taking it easy. Had a couple of weeks of heavy rain recently and the bike has not missed a beat. Got to make some kind of cover to stop that spray getting in that gap for the future, seems a daft place to mount the electrics!
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Post by Jake on Nov 23, 2016 5:42:03 GMT -5
Thanks Richierichl, This is useful information. If I've understood you right, on the NTV the Starter Relay is found behind the rear cowl, next to the left hand side-panel. Cheers, Jake.
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Post by richierichl on Feb 26, 2017 16:10:56 GMT -5
Once again a damp related problem has reared its ugly head. My bike has been running fine in the wet all winter, until last week. Fine going to work through wind and rain on Monday (10 miles). Left bike in covered area during work, upon leaving, misfires turning starter over and would not start. Tried jump starting from a car, would fire on one cylinder, but no more than this. Recovery man came out and sprayed wd40 all over the place, kept the bike ticking over on one cylinder, then it fired into life, with no further problems. Got home and checked all connections, ht leads and coils etc, only problem appeared to be slight greening on one of the pins in the connector block between the pulse coil lead and main wiring loom. Cleaned this up, re connected block and sprayed with wd40. Wednesday, same problem. Damp ride to work fine, leaving in the dry, would not start at all. Looked at the connector block, appeared that on re-connection I had pushed one of the pins back in the block, so there was not pŕoper contact. Fixed this, but bike would still only fire on one cylinder (rear cylinder flooded after starting attempts). Eventually second cylinder fired up and bike ran no problems. Decided to use spare bike for the rest of the week and check carb jets etc to stop flooding on rear cylinder if starting problems at the weekend. Spent Saturday stripping and cleaning carbs, found one pilot jet blocked, cleared and rebuilt, before also taking apart the pulse generator wire connectors, cleaning up all contacts and stripping a little insulating tape from the main loom, to enable me to place the joining block further back under the tank for protection, before adding fresh insulating tape and slipping a section of bycicle inner tube over the connector for added damp protection. Took bike out in the wet to test it, rode for about 8 miles through as many puddles as I could find with no problems. Going up a long hill, I had a misfire for a couple of seconds, which cleared up, before then taking it through a flooded section of road, with water aruond 6 inches deep for about 20 metres. Bike carried on fine for about a mile, before dying completely. Rolled it down a mile long hill, attempting to bump start several times without success. Tried the starter a few timès and eventually got the front cylinder to catch roughly, but unable to pull away. Left front cylinder ticking over for about 10 minutes, then bike fired up fine to get me home. Left it outside in the rain overnight to see if the starting problem would come back. Sunday morning bike started ok, so decided to test with a hose. As soon as I wet the area where the pulse coil wire comes out of the engine casing, the bike died. Wiggled wire coming out of the engine casing whilst pressing starter and it fired up, but not enough to run. Dried with à hairdryer and biñgo! Bike working! Removed clutch cover, took out pulse gererator blocks and lead, stripped off covering to find wires underneath a little rough, but no obvious breaks. Decided to wrap insulating tape round each individual wire from where they exit the engine casing right up to the connector! Before then wrapping the blue and white/blue wires and yellow and white/yellow wires as pairs, then all together. Upon reassembly, I put plenty of sillicon sealant around the casing where the wire passes into the clutch area. For good measure I slipped a length of inner tube over the èntire length of wire to where it joins the main loom and cable tied it to the frame, instead of using the wire holder. I slipped a piece of stiff tubing over the clutch cable and cable tied this to the frame to stop it rubbing against the pulse wire. Upon reassembly! Have sprayed water at everything electrical I can find, including plugs and coils, the bike does not miss a beat. Can only guess the problem was caused by damp on 20 year old wires causing shorting between damaged insulation, with heat from the front dowñpipe drying out the problem when left with just the front cylinder ticking over! At least the carb work has left the bike running and ticking over nice and smoothly now...
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