cyril
Full Member
Posts: 58
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Post by cyril on Oct 19, 2010 17:49:20 GMT -5
Hi all Have a 1989 600K Revere just under 30K on the clock. Just wondering when to expect parts to wear out? Throttle return (push) cable expired yesterday, fortunately it was generous enough to let me get home. last working bike was a CX500B, they had a reputation of dumping cam chains at 30K  Just wondered when to expect things, so i can preempt replacements rather than expensive rebuilds. must be a wealth of knowledge out there. . Thanks in advance  Chris |
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Post by Jake on Oct 20, 2010 2:28:43 GMT -5
Hi all Have a 1989 600K Revere just under 30K on the clock. Just wondering when to expect parts to wear out? Throttle return (push) cable expired yesterday, fortunately it was generous enough to let me get home. last working bike was a CX500B, they had a reputation of dumping cam chains at 30K Just wondered when to expect things, so i can preempt replacements rather than expensive rebuilds. must be a wealth of knowledge out there. . Thanks in advance Chris Good idea, Chris.... I've always kept spare cables i.e. clutch and speedo and also clutch and brake levers. This is why I like Wemoto so much, they deal in pattern parts which are cheaper....and delivery is usually fast. I actually changed most of my cables when I fitted 50mm bar raisers and fitted longer throttle and clutch cables off a Deauville... Generally though, I keep an eye on the following: • Gearbox... a bit agricultural e.g. 2nd gear can act up, and finding neutral can be difficult. Clutch can sometime go at around 15000 miles. This is why I’ve always used fully synthetic oil since I bought the bike. • Fork seals definitely need watching. It may be coincidence but mine haven’t failed since I fitted a Telefix fork brace. • Occasional electrical problems, beginning with a battery near the end of its life, and there’s a tendency for the regulator/rectifier and starter relay to fail. I definitely recommend keeping a spare battery around, and maybe buying a spare reg/rec off eBay…. • Single front disk can warp (this is one of the reasons I fitted a fork brace). As I say, I find using 5w40 fully synthetic oil helps the gearbox, but most people use 10w40 semi synthetic. |
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cyril
Full Member
Posts: 58
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Post by cyril on Oct 21, 2010 16:28:21 GMT -5
Cheers Jake.
Was fishing for cam chain expiry mileage.
Replaced fork seals, and bushes after my crunch, (Fork inners Kindly from Whiterevere)(seals PKN 'Pyramid parts')(Bushes wemoto)
Replaced front disk pads with Goldfren items as brake response was sluggish.
(i think previous fork seal leakages had soaked into the other pads).
Changed Instrument Illumnation wedge bulbs to coloured Led's 'Virtual village' + Hi beam, +Neutral (home made 10mm wedge Led)
(cored the led's to spread the beam, high beam, was too in your face at night) indicator repeater needs to be a bulb.
Beefed up fork brace under mudguard with some weld, Separated from plastics of course.
Sorry but cant help tinkering.
To do:- snapped return Throttle cable,
Thermostat suspect jammed open, or broken
Rear plastics need fibre-glassing around remaining cracked mounts (previous beefing up has held out so far).
Still to do set up front forks/headstock properly, nipped it up a few times, but tell tale rock when stationary, or on a kerb.
Reluctant to do to much, had a few hairy rides when the triple clamp was slightly vertically biased to the lower yoke, felt like riding a bucking bronco, only discovered problem after loosening whole front end and settling it with nylon hammer before nipping back up.
Rear Tyre nail holes plugged by blue gloop in tyre, kept pressure in for last 300 miles, (but i don't ride far or hard).
Happy riding to you all Chris
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