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Post by professore on Feb 12, 2011 12:45:05 GMT -5
Ok I did this on both bolts. For some reason my torque wrench did not "click" and I heard a crack and assumed it was the torque wrench - wrong answer.
Anyway my question is what's the best way to get them out ? Is there only thread on one side of the clamp does anyone know ? If so maybe gently drilling from the other side might do the job and screw the bolts out - since they are not stuck or anything ?
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Post by Jake on Feb 13, 2011 3:56:58 GMT -5
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Post by kirriepete on Feb 13, 2011 7:30:02 GMT -5
We're talking about the yoke clamps, right? Mine were rusted in when I tried to get the forks off last year - first turn of the socket took the heads off! Mucho drilling & tapping ensued - oh what joy!
As far as I recall, it's just the back half that's threaded, so you could possibly drill a small hole through and wazz a self-tapper or similar in to reverse the snapped bits out, but my first option would be to get a left-handed drill bit and go in from the front. If the bolts are free in the threads a left-handed drill will whizz them out in no time.
Or .... could you cut a slot in the top using a Dremel pointy cutter thing, then use a flat-headed screwdriver?
Whatever method you use, a squirt of penetrating fluid will make it all the easier (50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works wonders!).
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Post by professore on Feb 13, 2011 14:45:52 GMT -5
Problem is that the bolts are so hard i can't even mark them with a drill bit ! I don't have any left handed bits though.
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Post by gripper on Feb 13, 2011 16:23:13 GMT -5
Lets establish which bolts are sheared. Is it the bolts at the bottom of the alloy fork slider, one (or 2) of four or is it the bolt that clamps the stanchion in the bottom yolk (just behind the horns)? You don't see left handed drill bits, I was a tool maker and I never saw one.
centre punch the middle of the remaining bit of bolt (spend a bit of time carefully getting the middle) obtain a torx bit no. 30 or 25 drill a hole (with a high speed steel drill bit) slightly smaller than the overall diameter of the torx bit (0.25mm smaller) and about 6mm deep. This is the bit they don't show you on TV. Hammer the torx bit into the hole you've just drilled until it's firm, unscrew the left over bit. Finally buy a new torque wrench.
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Post by professore on Feb 13, 2011 16:27:53 GMT -5
Both bolts at the bottom of the alloy fork slider.
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Post by kirriepete on Feb 13, 2011 17:54:37 GMT -5
Ahh, those bolts! Well, the bottom half of the clamp is unthreaded so should just drop off, maybe leaving enough stub to get the moles on? If not, gripper's suggestion is good, except for - click me for left-handed drill bits - plenty around. Best of luck. |
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Post by professore on Feb 14, 2011 6:51:52 GMT -5
I have dropped it in to my friendly car mechanic this morning who says he'll "have a go off it" (Cork slang but you get the idea)
He's going to try to drill into the bottom of the screws and get them out that way. From what I've seen a lot of this kind of thing requires trial and error to learn - how slow to drill, what kind of bit, how much torque to apply, etc, etc, which he probably has 20 years of and I have zero. I wll report back how it went ...
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Post by Jake on Feb 14, 2011 8:21:08 GMT -5
I have dropped it in to my friendly car mechanic this morning who says he'll "have a go off it" (Cork slang but you get the idea)..... I hope he manages to sort it for you, Bob. Sounds like you were tackling a pretty simple task, and had the kind of disaster we all dread.....  As you say, keep in touch and let us know how it goes. Good luck mate.  |
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Post by professore on Feb 14, 2011 13:56:07 GMT -5
He was as good as his word, said it took him 10 minutes to get them out, and didn't even charge me ... ! Delighted.
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cyril
Full Member
Posts: 58
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Post by cyril on Feb 14, 2011 16:42:19 GMT -5
good to hear it's sorted.
Chris
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Post by Jake on Feb 15, 2011 2:59:23 GMT -5
He was as good as his word, said it took him 10 minutes to get them out, and didn't even charge me ... ! Delighted. Phew....what relief. Well done that friendly car mechanic. |
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