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Post by slasher on Aug 9, 2011 11:33:49 GMT -5
Hi guys, Just wondered whether anyone had experienced same problem with coolant? My temperature guage rises to nearly the red zone when static in traffic, but drops when on the move. Fairly usual you would have thought, apart from it worries me how high the guage goes up. I had always checked the expansion tank and it did seem ok. Just to be on the safe side I thought I'd check the radiator level. Just done that and no real sign of coolant having taken the cap off I drained the system and flushed through about 3 times. Drained the expansion tank and re-filled radiator with proper 50/50 mix to full and between max/min on the expansion tank. Would you not have thought the radiator should be nearly full with coolant showing in the expansion tank? I have also replaced the 10A fuse to the fan, checked the electrical connectors. This is the Revere taken to Germany when temperatures were in the 80's about 2 months ago. Good old girl Thanks Slasher
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Post by Jake on Aug 9, 2011 16:22:36 GMT -5
Hi guys, Just wondered whether anyone had experienced same problem with coolant? My temperature guage rises to nearly the red zone when static in traffic, but drops when on the move. Fairly usual you would have thought, apart from it worries me how high the guage goes up. Hi Slasher, There may be other issues which are causing the engine to oveheat. A faulty thermostat or radiator cap for example.... Or the valves may need adjusting and the carbs balanced etc. I’d personally start with having the valves adjusted. They may not have been adjusted on your bike for some time..... See link below for other causes: www.hawkworks.net/manual/5.html#5-1-troubleshootingwbieniec.kis.p.lodz.pl/moto/ntv/manual/3.pdfAlso, after draining the coolant from the radiator, I refill all the way up to the top of the radiator filler neck. I then replace the cap, start the engine and blip the throttle a few times and let the engine run for about 5 mins. Once the engine is cool, I then remove the radiator cap and top up with coolant once more..... I also make sure that the reservoir bottle is topped up to the upper mark once the engine has reached normal operating temp. I more or less follow the procedure in the link below: www.youtube.com/watch?v=anuQhg0Z2ws
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Post by slasher on Aug 10, 2011 7:58:04 GMT -5
Jake
Many thanks for the advise. I did run the engine and re-check the level but I had not thought about the radiator cap. Thanks for the links aswell.
Thanks Slasher
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Post by Jake on Aug 13, 2011 2:46:09 GMT -5
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Post by slasher on Aug 21, 2011 14:34:02 GMT -5
Hi Jake Only just managed to log back on as away with work. No, I did not flush with Radflush I only did it with water. I'm taking the bike on a 500 mile round trip next weekend to North Devon, so I'll see how things pan out? Mind you, at least I know the radiator will be topped right up this time and if I'm honest, it looked like straight water when I previously drained out!!! I think this might also have contributed to the hot running as dosn't proper coolant have a higher boiling point? Anyway, thankyou for all your input. Slasher
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Post by Jake on Aug 22, 2011 2:55:29 GMT -5
Cheers, Slasher..... Enjoy the trip. Let us know how it goes.
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Post by franky boy on Aug 27, 2011 14:33:19 GMT -5
I had always checked the expansion tank and it did seem ok. Just to be on the safe side I thought I'd check the radiator level. Just done that and no real sign of coolant having taken the cap off Would you not have thought the radiator should be nearly full with coolant showing in the expansion tank? No, you can only really check the coolant level by taking off the radiator cap. This might explain things a bit more: www.stoeretassen.nl/My_NTV650/Koeling/cooling.htm
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Post by slasher on Sept 4, 2011 14:38:03 GMT -5
Well, I have just returned from my 500 round trip and I think I am a bit closer to what may be the problem? Firstly, thanks guys for your input. I think now the filling the radiator fully and having replaced the neat water with proper coolant has definately helped I noticed the temperature now runs lower and there is no drop on the header tank, even after this weekend with one of the stints being a long 120 mile one at respectable speeds. However, I still noticed the guage when in long static traffic gets very close to the red I think it must now be the fan not kicking in? I do not hear it running and don't see any heat haze as you would expect. My 2 Firestorms you cetainly knew when the fan was running and ofcourse the temperature dropped. So, looks like I have got to try and work out whether the fan works and or the sender unit Mind you, what do you expect from an old £300 winter hack that has done Germany and North Devon in the past 3 months. Bless it.
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Post by Jake on Sept 5, 2011 9:40:27 GMT -5
Hi Slasher... Glad to hear the bike held up. I think Franklins tips on how to test the radiator and thermostat look pretty sound.... (see link below): www.stoeretassen.nl/My_NTV650/Koeling/cooling.htmTouch wood... I've not suffered from these kind of problems on my bike, so far.
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Post by slasher on Sept 25, 2011 12:05:45 GMT -5
Just used the link about cooling fan from Jake to check whether mine is working (thanks Jake) and it isn't. Obviously seems to be the problem on over heating sorted?
All I need to do is replace it!! Easier said than done, just Googled fan and not much out there. Just have to keep air flow or turn off when stationary for a while. What a pain!!
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Post by Jake on Sept 25, 2011 13:50:07 GMT -5
Check out the thread below, particularly the replies from Danny, Honda and DP Miller..... growell.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=engine&action=display&thread=929Danny actually repaired his radiator fan after taking it apart….. "I fixed my fan a couple a months ago. Checked the fan it self by connecting a battery. The fan didn't come on. Took it apart and examined and it turned out that there were no contact between fan rotor and contact pins (located in plastic unit, you can take it apart with some mild force) a lot of WD40 and the pins eventually came out. Voila, saved me some money.
Now the fan comes on at about 2/3 of white marking. Hope it will help."It's possible that a competent electrician or mechanic could service the fan-motor for you. This will involve removing the fan, and undoing the rear plate of the fan-motor, to free up the carbon brushes which are probably sticking inside..... I've heard that the fan off a VFR will also fit....
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