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Post by rossell on Sept 22, 2014 18:56:02 GMT -5
Well, my long term, part time rebuild of my NTV, has it street legal and back on the road. HUZZAH!! I knew there would be some teething problems once I took her out on the open road but by and large, I am rapt with the way she is running. The gear box and its clunks were to be expected but I'm having an issue with starting her up when rested for a couple of hours. When I hit the go button, it will begin to turn over but there is a 'clunk' as if a gear has kicked in and it stops the start process, so I guess it's part of an electric safety cut off action going on. After a bit of rockin' in gear, unsuccessfull starts and a bit of jiggin' around with the gear lever, I've been able to get a clean start followed by a decent 'clunk' when I engage 1st. Once she's warmed up there's no problem, so far. It's annoying but I don't know if this points to a developing problem or if it's just part and parcel of the 'agricultural' nature of the gearbox. Any hints or insights would be great, ta.
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Post by rossell on Oct 2, 2014 5:15:53 GMT -5
G'day folks,
I'm hearing some ticking noise from the rear but the bike sounds like it's puurrring. It still has starting problems. After an over night cool down it still takes 5 minutes of 'gigging' with the gears, to allow me, seemingly at random, to allow me to start. Then, no problem and apart from a minor fuel leak everything is wonderful. Neutral and kick stand switches may still have a role to play but I'm feelin', gear box or clutch. Engine torque and everything else is great. Still workin' it. I hope it's not the gear selector but as I said, there seems to be no rhyme nor reason as to how she runs. One trip, 'this' and another, 'that'. Enjoying the discovery of this ongoing project.
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Post by Jake on Oct 2, 2014 7:57:39 GMT -5
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Post by rossell on Oct 6, 2014 6:55:21 GMT -5
Thanx for the advice Jake. I'm beginning to think that there may be a combination of factors, although I'm yet to figure out those factors so far. I've just ticked-over 600 klms and have no real acceleration issues and my baby purrs. I'll keep you informed on the progress. NTV's ROCK.
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Post by Jake on Oct 7, 2014 4:29:59 GMT -5
Cheers Steve, Forgot to mention, but you could also check the clutch diode. Just check that it’s fully connected to begin with. Apparently, the clutch diode allows the bike to start in neutral, or in gear with the clutch pulled in. If it’s faulty or not fully connected at the block-connector, it could also affect the starting (see thread below): www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/forum/honda-hawk-gt-bros-discussions/mechanical-and-technical/26899-clutch-switch-and-diode-troubleshootIt seems that one of the guy’s in the thread above had similar symptoms to you but his problem was with the ‘clutch switch’ on the left handlebar, which can be affected by a faulty clutch diode: ‘....For right now I have the clutch switch bypassed, but I will be sure and check it when I can grab a voltmeter that has the (ohm) settings. The two I have dont have those settings..... At this point I am a little frustrated. One day I ride it and all is good and it sits for day, then it seems the clutch switch dies in 24 hours and I have to bypass it......’But another guy in the same thread states that: ‘....Checked the clutch diode and it is partially disconnected. It was still together, but not snapped completely together. Snapped them together and neutral switch and clutch switch works. Its weird that a partially disconnected clutch diode could cause neither the clutch switch or the neutral switch to work.....’Of course it might not be an electrical problem. But if it is then I hope this helps....
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Post by rossell on Oct 10, 2014 2:47:09 GMT -5
Thanx Jake, I''ll check that out.
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