clutch cable fouling

[steadythebuffs]

Hello,
My clutch cable is fouling, so that the handlebars won't drop away smoothly to the right. I vaguely remember that this is an MOT failure, so want to fix it by October, but have removed and re-routed the cable in several ways without success. Everything standard.
The cable might be too long, but I'm told it's the 'right one'.
How do you route yours (vicar ) ?
I've taken some pics, but can't see how to upload them.
Any ideas?
Buffs

[steadythebuffs]

got it - bit big though

wheel pointing straight forward



view from left handle bar (note use of OEM cable tie, and shabby-chic finish)

[dpmiller]

Download the service manual, it's got cable routes at the front of it. But, the cable should run straight down the back of the downtube held by wire hoop or two. It looks like it might be correct from here, so it *might* indeed be too long.

Is there a part number printed on the cable?

[steadythebuffs]

Getting a manual download (thanks Pops)
I'll check the number, but the cable has become the least of my worries since I attempted to change the front pads on Sunday, and disabled my bike
Rolling my sleeves up and getting stuck back in tomorrow morning, with the aid of a g-clamp, and a nice cup of tea.
Strangely confident of success - against all evidence so far, which would pitch my DIY prowess at about a half-spanner on the Haynes scale...

[jaz66]

Hi Buffs

Sorry to hear your tale.

See my post re brakes
Changed mine a little while back and thought i'd broke the F****rs
but it all worked out fine. (Cheers everyone.!)

Whatever the problem I am sure, with the help of our 'Experts' you will be able to sort it out....
Bigger G-Clamp AND Larger pots of thea MAY also be required.
(remember. Do NOT use the LARGE hammer................ ;D )

All the best

jaz

[jaz66]

Hi Buffs

Just as an extra point re pics

Why not download Irfanview from 'software' sites
ie; Nonags

It can be a library for your pics
It can cut, crop and rotate them
AND resize them for posting,
and best of all...It's FREE.

Used it for about 4 years.
best free software I have ever gotten

No bugs, and it works, what do you have to lose...?
regards
jaz

[honda]

Brake calipers should not need a G/clamp to return the pistons. In otherwords if your calipers need a g/clamp to push the pistons in your brakes will be worthless.
If the pistons are stiff, remove them. Put g clamp on alternate pistons and pump each out a little at the time checking there is still fluid in the res so you dont run out in the middle of procedure. If you just pump each out a little at the time as soon as one gets past the seal you will have a good chance of pulling out the other. Air pressure is not much use at this job and if one of the pistons decide to move with compressed air there is a big POP and brake fluid ends up everywhere. Messy stuff. The only other good alternative is to make up an adaptor and pump them out with a grease gun.
When you get them out remove the seals and clean well inside the cyl's including the grooves for the seals. If there is any corrosion on the pistons replace them. Remember there are longer pistons in revere/ntv calipers than most others especially twin disc models so get the correct ones or they will come out past the seals before the pads are worn out. Build with preferably new seals and smear either proper rubber grease or silicon grease on the outside of the pistons and inside of caliper.
Pistons should be able to be pushed in with your thumbs albeit with a fair bit of pressure. This is how the calipers are left where I work.
If this is not the case the brakes wont be worth a f--t.
I have no faith in some aftermarket pads especially HH as they have wrecked discs. They are also hard so have low friction.
The ntv/revere has a lackluster front brake so use the HONDA pads (I have given the part number and price in one of my postings) They are thick and work.
Too soft a pad and they will fade, too hard and they will need too much pressure on the lever.
Hope this helps
honda

[steadythebuffs]

thanks for all the tips, chaps.
Didn't get a chance to do the work this morning, but I'd put all my faith in the g-clamp, having seen it advised in several authorative-looking places on the net.
I think I'll give everything I can see a good clean, and then try and thumb-press/wiggle/rotate the pistons again. If that fails - and the brakes are knackered as you suggest Honda - no harm in trying the g-clamp, I guess, bunging in the new pads, and seeing if they still work.
There's no fluid in the system now (long story), but perhaps I'm just too feeble to muster the thumb pressure required!
I really don't fancy pulling them apart and rebuilding them, given my performance on the simple pad change.
fingers crossed
Buffs

[steadythebuffs]

DIY disasters No1 - Changing brake pads (continued).

an update on my brake problem.
a) forcing back the seized pistons with a g-clamp worked fine
b)popping in new Honda pads (as recommended here), worked fine (they were appreciably thinner than the 'correct' pattern ones I had been trying...)
c) bleeding brakes the jam-jar way was fine also.

but...brakes binding really badly despite having given everything visible a good clean, so

DIY disasters No.2 - New brake piston seals.
Off to the main stealer for my seals. Had them in stock. Total cost for four small rubber rings £16

Used the following recommended method to ease the pistons out:
g-clamp one piston, gently squeeze brake lever, to ease the other out a wee bit; swap g-clamp to other piston and repeat. Worked very well.

Two idiot's tips:
1) When one of your pistons eventually pops out there will be a load of fluid, including some squirting out at odd angles. Wear goggles, work over a large bucket, cover everything with rags. Including front tyre . . .

2) Perhaps one of your pistons is really stiff - you can check this by giving the lever a very gentle squeeze, before you begin the g-clamp two-step.
One of mine was (it was getting left behind). In which case it would have been a very good idea to make that the piston that I popped using the assistance of the fluid pressure.
Instead I popped the smooth one. With no fluid pressure to help, I couldn't budge the seized one.
Out with the mole grips .... and hey presto: scarred piston (still in place, can't be budged, must be replaced, bang head against floor, a little manly misting of the eye)

(One odd thing I noticed about my brakes - which worked perfectly well until I decided to stick my beak in - was that the pad spring was missing. The one at the front that seats the pads was there, the one at the back that spreads the pads was not. Yet they worked, silently, efficiently.)

I think I'll need a compressor to get the other piston out, so I'm waving the white flag on this one. Calling the local bike shop to come and pick it up. The shame.

Thanks for your help, everyone.

Changing the fork oil next!

[derbyshirebill]

Sorry about the brake Buffs.
Sympathise completely- brakes can be barstewards.
Instead of just a G clamp, when dealing with multiple piston brakes I put a bit of wood (or even a metal bar) between both pistons and the clamp. It tends to even up the pressure and you can soon tell which piston is the stiffer- get this one out first by adjusting where you put the clamp.
Once everything is out, cleaned and reassembled, use a bit of wood or bar in place of the disc and pads to test the brake. Gentle pressure on the lever should grip the bar, but the important thing is that when the pressure is released the pistons should retract a very short way so as to release the bar. This shows that the piston is being gripped more by the rubber seal than the cylinder, allowing the seal to pull back the piston due to the seal's elastic properties. This prevents brake binding. If this does not happen there is something wrong with either the seal (e.g.-gone hard) or something is amiss with the piston and/or cylinder.

Anyway, I hope it all comes good,

Bill

[steadythebuffs]

very trying times - thanks for the sympathy Bill

Can't find anyone to do the work for me in the next couple of weeks, so will crack on and do it myself. Ordered pattern pistons from wemoto.com, plus a new pin. Pistons come with seals, and are still way cheaper than the genuine article (for no good reason, fingers crossed).
Going to do one cylinder, re-fill the system, squeeze out the bad-boy, bung in the other new one, refill, bleed and hey presto. Slightly concerned about getting pistons back in straight, as I tried already with the out one I've got and couldn't do it (perhaps the seals were knackered)
Any tips on this? And can I just lube up seals and new pistons with brake fluid, or do I have to use special grease. I've got a tube of Weldtite bike grease with Teflon. It's red and 'dynamically low temperature". Will this do the job?

On the up side of this whole debacle, I've learned a bit about NTV brakes, and been given a refresher course in how not to approach a job. ;D