Starter Solonoid Melting Fuses

[hubcap]

My starter solonoid is melting the 30A fuses, any idea what this is a sign of?

I've tightened up all the spade connectors, I know that can cause slight arcing and melt the plastics, but it's still doing it, have replaced it with a fuse that feels a much tighter fit, it's been pretty much ok since, but it's starting to show signs of trying to melt the fuse again, like not starting first push like it normally does.

Does it mean the solonoid is on its way out or is there something else I could look at?

Thanks guys

[McF]

First - my usual health warning on electrical problems - I still believe electrickery is modern black magic. What else other than voodoo can explain how it works? ;D

If your fuse is getting hot it's a clear sign that something is creating a lot of electrical load. No workshop manual handy or wiring diagram, but I think you're right - the only thing at the end of that wire is the starter motor and solenoid.

The job of the solenoid is to act as a switch. When you press the starter switch, a low current wire closes the solenoid which then transmits high current straight from your battery to the starter.

Is the bike starting OK? In particular, is the starter turning the engine straight away when you press the switch, does it stop turning when you release the switch? Does the engine start firing normally?

It sounds as though you've done some of the obvious things. Have you cleaned all of the contacts from battery to starter and also the main earth? Worth doing and especially at this time of year, give a smear of vaseline (tell Norfolk that KY is no good for this application).

If it's not the electrical continuity, it pretty much only leaves the solenoid or starter motor if the engine turns over OK. Let's hope whatever it is works out cheap

[norfolknchance]

compairing it to mine
her starter motor always sounds slow..........even when we used my new battery

[buzzin]

I have no experience with bikes when it comes to this, but reading this I would think the startermotor has to much friction when turning. Either the engine would be turn hard (but you would notice this, and starting would be all but impossible) or the startermotor itsself is turning hard.
I have no idea where it is located, but it you could have a look at it...that might explain a lot.
(just checked the service manual....it seems it's not to hard to remove)

[sickpup]

The charging system on most late bikes now routes through the starter relay.

On the NTV's the starter relay heating up is a pretty sure sign of internal corrosion within the relay and if you check the charging circuit output you will probably find the voltage on the low side so yes this is a general sign the the starter relay is on it's way out.

It is unlikely that a starter motor problem is causing the excess heat, you hardly ever use the starter motor in normal use of the vehicle whereas the charging system is pretty much always active while running.

New relays cost about £35.00

[hubcap]

The starter motor in general does sound slow, but it's been like that ever since I got it with no problems. It started quickening up abit a couple of weeks ago and has gone back to the way it was.. hope its not actually a problem 'cos that sounds expensive.

Generally she starts fine, like a crank and a half, sounds a bit like a cough. Fires n runs fine.
Hoping it'll be the solonoid if it has to be any.. probably got better chance of getting hold of one for less money than a starter motor :S

ETA:

Thanks for that Sickpup! Hopefully it'll be fine for a few weeks, but if a new one is only £35 then that's not too much of a pain.

[sickpup]

That price on the starter relay is from me.

If you do need a stater motor (which I doubt, brushes are replaceable and some are just slow) I should have a couple kicking around and could do you one cheap, around £20-£30 plus postage

[hubcap]

Starter motor should be fine hopefully.. willl leave that one for now, might 'ave a starter relay off you in a couple of weeks though, funds don't allow right now, if anythin goes wrong it'll be back to the CG for me!

[rj2para]

Interesting thread I may be up for that as well sickpup if my rec reg turns out to be ok.

My main fuse stopped smoking after all the connections were cleaned but it still sounds similar.

Roger

[sickpup]

If all the readings at the output of the reg/rec are fine it is normally the relay that has gone. In fact off the top of my head I can't ever remember changing the reg/rec on an NTV although I did a fair few on BROS's. The relay problem was also more common on the BROS's although they use the same charging system as the NTV's.