juju
New Member
Posts: 8
|
Post by juju on Oct 7, 2007 5:35:18 GMT -5
Hi All, I have just bought a NTV 650 which is my first bike for about 12 years after previously owning a VT 500. I have had it a week and done about 250 miles and am delighted by it! Unfortunatly however I hve a problem!! A couple of days ago I went to start the bike and it wouldn't turn over so I had to bump it which I put down to damp as previous to me owning it it was kept in a garage. For the rest of the day it started fine however yesterday the same thing happenend. Then towards the end of the day it refused to turn over again and my electrics stopped working and the bike seemed to be intermittently mis fire and go on to one cylinder. Also something that was strange is that the rev counter was being erratic!!! I managed to get it home and I am about to go out armed with my Haynes manual and start fault finding. I am thinking along the lines of a duff battery and or a charging problem. Also I'll take a look at the plugs and coil connections etc. Ca anyone help!!  Many thanks  Pete |
|
|
|
Post by McF on Oct 7, 2007 6:45:59 GMT -5
Hi Juju
welcome to the gang and good luck on your return to biking.
Sorry to hear about the problems with your Aunty; it sounds like electrics, especially with the Rev Counter going haywire.
I've had something similar, but it seemed to sort itself out somehow.
Things worth looking at:
Fully charged battery
Check the connections for the ignition pulse generators (4 wire block under petrol tank at right front. Trace the wire from the forward edge of the clutch housing, it's got a braided external sheath. I'd part the connector, clean the connections, spray with wd40 or similar and reconnect.
Check the connections for the CDi unit, behind the left side panel.
Get the prayer mat out and face east.
I've recently had fail to start as well, which I traced to the safety systems.
Bike will not start in gear unless the clutch is in (and the appropriate switches are working correctly).
Bike will cut out in gear with the side stand down.
My problem was the side stand switch sticking "down", when I selected a gear, the motor cut out.
Good luck with it. Once it's cured, always helpful to leave a note for collective learning!
|
|
|
|
Post by ntvnick on Oct 7, 2007 12:25:37 GMT -5
I agree it sounds electrical, another place to check is the multiway connectors in the headlight, the fuel pump is electrical and if this is not working that will also give you cutting out and running on one cylinder due to fuel starvation.
The best time to check is when it is refusing to start as you can check the voltages and see what is not working.
MCF is correct in that the side stand switch is another potential problem area.
I don't think there can be a definite answer for this, just a process of elimination. One of the main maxims in electrical fault finding though is ' are the voltages correct?' start with that and you can't go wrong.
Nick
|
|
|
|
Post by derbyshirebill on Oct 7, 2007 13:01:21 GMT -5
Hello Juju, and welcome. Nice to see an ex VT500 rider with us (they had a nice gearbox, didn't they). I go along with the others. Just a comment though- you mention the tacho going haywire. This could indicate that the CDI is getting duff information from the crank sensor or its wiring. The sensor operates on a low power line and can be the first to give trouble. Before ripping the plot to pieces though, I agree with the others- modern electrics are pretty reliable and any trouble is more likely to be in the wiring and connectors. I'd take the tank and the plastics (and headlamp front) off, then check all wiring for damage before parting and reconnecting all connectors, with a squirt of WD40 or similar. It's paid dividends for me in the past on bikes and cars, and even if the problem is elsewhere you'll have a bike less likely to give trouble in future, especially if you ride in bad weather. Patience is the key (which is easy to say if you don't need the bike for work the next day  ) Cheers, Bill |
|
pops
New Member
Posts: 16
|
Post by pops on Oct 7, 2007 13:06:46 GMT -5
I'm with you nick on this one go for all the basics 1st then start to move up the ladder.
On the last bike I did I had an erratic problem with the starter button,some times it turned over other times it didn't .Jumped straight to the conclusion it was the solenoid.Forked out for an Ebay spare,then found out it was the starter button contacts nuts up and sprained.Lesson learned I think.
Pops
|
|
juju
New Member
Posts: 8
|
Post by juju on Oct 8, 2007 16:01:44 GMT -5
Hi All, Thanks for all the great advice. Pretty sure that my battery is shot as when I connected the car battery via jump leads the bike was fine and when I removed it the bike started mis firing. Got a new battery today! Haven't fitted it yet but just a bit worried that I could damaged the new battery if my voltage regulator is shot. What can I do to test for this and is this the case that I can damage my new battery? Thanks |
|
|
|
Post by honda on Oct 8, 2007 16:24:02 GMT -5
There area couple of checks. First check the battery voltage before starting the bike. IT should read at least 12.5v. If not charge the thing but not with a car charger as a bike battery is much too small for even the trickle car thingys.
With the bike running the voltage should rise ideally to 14.2v with a bit of a rev held on it. The regulators on Honda's tend to give a bit of trouble. Bike regulator/rectifiers are not too presise about voltage so if you get slightly above 14.2 dont worry too much. If it gets up next 15v youve got a problem the reg/rec is over charging. If it doesnt make it as far as 14v it may be the reg/rec or the generator coils. Should this be the case ask here and we will try and help you test the system
Hope you got a good Yuasa, Bosch or brand names battery cause those cheapy things are junk.
As a matter of interest the gel batteries also fit with little or no mods. YTX/CTX12 and 14 fit but are just a little higher.
honda
|
|
juju
New Member
Posts: 8
|
Post by juju on Oct 9, 2007 14:22:02 GMT -5
Hi Honda, Thanks for the post! Have checked my voltage and at 4,000 revs I'm getting 16.4 Volts. So I guess that funny smell was my old battery cooking!! Any advice on who to get a rectifier / regulator from? Thanks |
|
|
|
Post by McF on Oct 9, 2007 14:49:07 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by honda on Oct 9, 2007 15:34:43 GMT -5
Almost any 5 wire reg/rec will do the job. All you have to do is connect the the 3ph wires in any order and get the pos and neg the correct way around. There are those who say Honda has bad reg/rec's. They may be correct but then again I have a theory that if air could get at the damm thing and keep it cool there would be little problems. Also some who try and save things by keeping lights,grips etc switched off are actually making life worse for the reg/rec as the generator runs full boot all the time and if there is nothing to use the current the reg/rec has to soak it up. So dont be afraid to keep things switched on. Also the higher the engine rpm the more a permanent magnet alternator will produce.
Now McF is corrrect in some of what he says and that is about the price of an after market reg/rec. But as to loving worlds end?
honda
|
|
|
|
Post by dpmiller on Oct 9, 2007 16:28:13 GMT -5
M&P do universal regs less than that IIRC.
I wouldn't agree tho honda that Honda make iffy regs- look at the tat that the other three have used- Yamaha units flatten batteries when left for a few weeks, Suzuki & Kawasaki both faffed around sensing voltages off the headlamp circuit etc. And what was the universal fix? Superdream reg...
Juju, before condemning the reg/rect, check the voltage again with a known-good battery. It's not unknown for a duff cell to cause HIGH voltages, as the battery can't load the regulator enough to smooth out the supply...
|
|
|
|
Post by honda on Oct 9, 2007 16:41:08 GMT -5
Try reading the posting first.
Quote from earlier
There are those who say Honda has bad reg/rec's. They may be correct but then again I have a theory that if air could get at the damm thing and keep it cool there would be little problems.
This does not say my opinion of Honda reg/recs is poor I meerly walk a line where I try not to disagree nor create disagreement.
honda
|
|
|
|
Post by steadythebuffs on Oct 9, 2007 17:57:18 GMT -5
what's a rectafryer? cos I like a good barney...  something about electricity? I'm against 'em. Buffs |
|
|
|
Post by McF on Oct 10, 2007 0:35:01 GMT -5
what's a rectafryer? Buffs If you take the foam away to reduce your seat height, then your Rectafryer goes wrong and overheats, you'll soon find out why it's called "Rectafryer", 'cos you'll end up with a Fried Rectum! Boom, Boom |
|
|
|
Post by dpmiller on Oct 10, 2007 2:37:56 GMT -5
awfully defensive there, mr h.
:-)
|
|
)
