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Post by everydaybiker on Aug 11, 2007 8:49:43 GMT -5
.....Says in the manual to use them for "extended high speed riding" as opposed to the standard DPR8EA9....
My daily commute is 160 miles of mostly motorway, and plugs are due for change soon. Wondering whether to go up a grade?
And is there any real advantage on the NTV in using Iridium?
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Post by honda on Aug 11, 2007 10:25:27 GMT -5
HONDA does indeed recomend the "9" heat range for this purpose. They are the same price and will have no adverse effect at other time's. They would be a little bit more prone to fouling in town/endless cold starts use but the likely hood of this is minimal.
The reason for this change to a "9" is that on extended high speed work it is very unlikely that the throttle will be full or 3/4 open despite the speed. Once you reach say 80mph the throttle is backed off resulting in a lean burn. This can be made worse by those who set the idle mixture too lean in the vane hope of more economy. When the throttle is only partly open a carb is partly running on the idle jets. At high rpm this results in lean burn which is no bad thing. Many rejets result in a rich mixture to avoid this but any chance of economy goes out the window. Modern engines have good valves, especially HONDA and are quite happy with this with this "normal" lean run.
At the extreeme plug tips/electrodes get too hot and start to cause detonation. This causes the mixture to light or explode prematurely instead of being lit by the spark. The premature ignition then gets into a vicious circle kind of thing where the longer it happens the higher the cyl/plug temp gets. It can be heard as a fast clinking noise or as wee call it here "pinking" This will be most likely to be heard just as the throttle is opened at low rpm. This can cause all kinds of problems. There can be problems with "burnt" valves and plugs can even melt.
The "9" plug suits the higher cyl temps of running lean for extended periods and is less likely to get itself into the problem although the change in temp range of the plug is only minimal.
By all means fit the "9" if this is the type of riding your bike is doing. Your bike may not need them but it will do no harm.
Iridium is popular as is paladium for cars and do the same job. These plugs origonate from racing and have very thin electrodes. They are very good at not fouling and are excellant for use with lean mixtures or for running on LPG. They often get great praise for being better as they "fixed" a problem, the reality probably was that because of their ability to spark they overcame a coil fault so in effect the problem was not really fixed and will usually raise its head in the future. They are expensive. They also last a long time. At least 16k in bikes and 50k in cars.
Many supposed problems with plugs are caused by lean/weak mixture and by getting too wide a gap.
Plugs gaps should checked prior to fitting as per the manufacturers spec's. Always keep the gap tight on the gauge as plug gaps are only ever going to get wider. Wider plug gaps DO NOT make a better spark and are sore on the coils so keep them near correct.
Bear in mind that the advise you are likely to get about plug replacement will come from someone who sells plugs. Plugs will last a long time.
If it were me I would just stay wiyh the standard plug be it an 8 or a 9.
Hope this helps Honda
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Post by everydaybiker on Aug 12, 2007 8:26:49 GMT -5
More good advice as ever Mr honda (small 'h')!
My preference will, I think, be to stay with standard spec plugs but go up the '9' for my usage.
Cheers
Derek
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Post by Jake on Aug 21, 2007 5:48:50 GMT -5
Only just found this message on plugs…. Has anyone tried the Splitfires yet? I’ve tried NGK and Denso’s and also NGK Iridium’s but I prefer the Splitfire plugs to any of them. Similar performance to the NGK Iridium’s but the engine feels smoother with the Splitfires. I’ve also used them on the CX 500…. Fitting for NTV is SF 416C and I usually buy them from Bell Rock Racing. They did a good deal last time round of 4 plugs for only £15.00. (Price from M&P was extortionate at around £9.00 per plug!!) www.bellrockracing.co.uk/sparkplugs.htmlJake. |
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Post by petetheraven on May 11, 2011 17:57:08 GMT -5
I have some new NGK plugs for my bike but don't have a plug socket that fits the plug and the hole. Any ideas where I could get one online?
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Post by Jake on May 12, 2011 1:14:20 GMT -5
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Post by hairyuk on Jul 3, 2011 14:38:29 GMT -5
regarding splitfire plugs
if you index your plugs when you fit them
it will run and start better
describe indexing
if you look at any normal type spark plug
you will see a centre electrode
and coming from the outer edge is the bent tang
right get a marker pen alighn the back of the tang
to the electrode put a mark on the porcelane of the plug
when you fit the plugs try to get the open side of the plug to face the inlet valve
if you think of it this way
when the fuel mixture is coming into the cylender head
through the inlet valve
if the back of the tang is facing the valve
the fuel hits the tang and parts the mixture
if it comes into the open side of the plug
it comes into the spark
if any one understands my explanation good
mark
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Post by gripper on Aug 3, 2011 9:49:18 GMT -5
That is the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. The mixture is in gaseous form and is not coming in from the inlet valve when it is ignited. The inlet valve is closed by that time and the gas is under compression by the rising piston. It would require tightening or loosening the plug to achieve the correct orientation. That in itself could lead to a stripped thread or loss of compression.
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